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Home > Technicans Corner > Tech Life > Informational Articles > Some Basics of Steam Boiler Systems
Some Basics of Steam Boiler Systems
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Some Basics of Steam:

 

An issue that many contractors will encounter at some point in their career is what to do with a steam system. Because steam is not so popular any more there is little training available for installation or service. We will attempt to define some basic principles.

 

 

Often a homeowner is only marginally aware of the kind of system in his house. The unsuspecting service tech finds a boiler in the basement but little else to define the system. The nameplate on the boiler usually gives both water and steam capacities. In many cases it is only a matter of which trim package is installed whether a boiler if fitted for steam or water. Some indicators of a steam system stand out right away. A sight glass on the side of the boiler is the first clue. The absence of an expansion tank is an indicator. A water feeder is a clue where a hot water boiler would only have a pressure-reducing valve. The set point of the relief valve will likely be below 15 psi in a steam system but probably 30 psi in hot water. A cast iron tank on the floor with pipes going in and out and a pump mounted on the side is a condensate receiver. Only steam boilers need them.

 

Moving on to piping, look at the near boiler piping arrangement. A Hartford loop connects the condensate return through a low loop below the boiler inlet and back up to a height just below the boiler water line, then back down to the low boiler inlet. In effect it works like a P trap. Not all steam boilers have Hartford loops but they won’t be found on hot water boilers. A single pipe system will have the supply connection from the boiler going out to the system and across the top of the boiler down into the top of the Hartford loop. From the header out the pipe must be pitched toward the boiler. Single pipe steam is magic because it has steam in the top of the pipe and condensate water in the bottom. When it isn’t working right the pipe can fill with water which blocks the steam. Especially in single pipe systems, the adage applies “Steam up, Air out, Water back.”

 

Another characteristic of single pipe systems is the presence of steam radiator air vents. They govern the “air out” component of the system. The vent allows air out until the float and or bi-mental element close the orifice. At that point in the cycle the radiator is filled with steam. When it cools, the vent opens again, which allows air back into the radiator. We have all experienced filling a straw with liquid then placing a thumb over the top end. The liquid remains in the straw until we release the top. A radiator vent works in similar fashion. With the vent open, condensate can run back toward the boiler. When vents are plugged, they do not allow air out in the first place so the steam is not able to fill the radiator.

 

On the other end of the scale, if steam is coming out of the vent the float and the bi-metal are faulty. The vent should be replaced. The most popular vents look like silver bullets. Some vents are adjustable, others have fixed orifices. Maid-O-Mist vents look like small drums with the fixed orifice screwed into the top. Smaller orifices go closer to the boiler, larger ones go farther away.

 

There is a main line vent near the boiler. A malfunction there is often a cause for noise or poor condensate return. A no-heat or poor heat complaint is mostly related to poor venting and poor condensate return. A quick check will reveal cold radiators that are full of air not steam. Main line vents not working will result in a pile of condensate that blocks steam from rising. The last thing a tech should do is to raise the steam pressure. It only makes things worse. Three PSI is high pressure for a single pipe system.

 

 

If the radiators have pipes at both ends and steam traps on the outlet it is a two-pipe system. These radiators are not vented. The weak link in this system is the steam trap. When the trap is cold, the thermostatic element closes the port. As the radiator fills with steam or hot condensate, the element opens the trap to dump. When it cools, it closes to trap steam in the radiator again. If live steam is running straight through the radiator, the BTUs do not release to the space. Live steam in the condensate line usually makes noise. There should always be a temperature difference from one side of a trap to the other. If the temperatures are equal, the trap is open. If it stays that way, it indicates a failed trap.

 

Other types of terminal units like unit heaters and air handlers have float and thermostatic traps. The principle is the same; steam is held in the coil until the heat is removed. The trap releases condensate when the float rises. The thermostatic element vents air until the element reaches the temperature of saturated steam. If a pipe sticking out the side of the building is billowing a cloud of water vapor aka steam it is the first clue that there are steam traps not doing their job. Banging in the pipes or radiators indicates traps not working or maybe air in the system. In most cases increasing steam pressure only makes the problem worse so exhaust other avenues before taking that step.

 

This is the very basic list of symptoms and responses.

 

~This article was provided by Dallas Strong

 

Key Takeaways: Steam Boiler System Basics

1. Identifying a Steam System

  • Key Indicators:

    • Presence of a sight glass on the boiler.

    • No expansion tank (hot water systems have one).

    • Water feeder instead of a pressure-reducing valve.

    • Relief valve set to 15 psi or lower (hot water systems are set higher).

    • Presence of a condensate receiver — only found in steam systems.


2. Understanding Piping and the Hartford Loop

  • The Hartford loop connects the return line through a low loop, preventing boiler flooding.

  • In single-pipe systems, steam travels in the top of the pipe, and condensate water returns via the bottom.

  • Proper pipe pitch is crucial — poor pitch can cause pipes to fill with water, blocking steam flow.

Key Principle:Steam up, Air out, Water back” — crucial for system function.


3. Radiator Air Vents in Single-Pipe Systems

  • Purpose: Vents release trapped air to allow steam into the radiator.

  • Malfunctioning vents may cause:

    • Cold radiators (vent stuck closed).

    • Steam escaping the vent (vent stuck open or faulty).

  • Popular vent types include:

    • Silver bullet vents (common and simple).

    • Maid-O-Mist vents (fixed orifice designs).


4. Main Line Vents

  • Main vent failure can cause:

    • Noise issues.

    • Blocked steam flow due to pooled condensate.

  • Raising steam pressure should be a last resort, as it often worsens issues.

  • 3 PSI is considered high pressure for a single-pipe system.


5. Two-Pipe Systems and Steam Traps

  • In two-pipe systems, radiators use steam traps instead of air vents.

  • Trap Failure Symptoms:

    • Equal temperatures on both sides of the trap = trap stuck open.

    • Live steam noise in the condensate line = faulty traps.


6. Terminal Units and Float/Thermostatic Traps

  • Unit heaters and air handlers use float/thermostatic traps.

  • These traps vent air and release condensate as heat is removed.

  • Steam clouds from building pipes often signal failed traps.

  • Banging noises often indicate air or condensate blockages.


7. Troubleshooting Advice

  • Focus on venting issues and condensate return before adjusting steam pressure.

  • Raising steam pressure often worsens performance — pursue other solutions first.

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